Venice - Caffè Florian

I fell in love with Italy's grand historic caffès through a mixture of a visit to Turin, and a Negroni crawl around Florence (more on that here). So, although on my first visit to Venice I gave Caffè Florian a wide berth, dismissing it as just an overpriced tourist trap, on my second visit I started to think maybe I'd been a bit unfair, and perhaps there was a bit more to it than that.

So here's my guide to having a drink at Caffè Florian, like a local.

First of all, try not to dress too much like a tourist. As someone who wishes most of the world would make a bit more of an effort sartorially speaking in general, this advice need not necessarily limit itself to your visit to Florian! It's not as though there's a dress code to get to the bar at the back of Florian, but try and think of it more as a courtesy to the Venetians, many of whom actually have quite a strong affection for this place, and I suspect consider the bar a refuge from the throngs of tourists outside. Obviously they'd know anyone who isn't a regular, as they'd likely recognise them if they were, but they'll find your presence less upsetting if you, you know, blend in a bit. So try to leave your baseball cap, your garish coat which was designed with mountaineering in mind (with the exception of a few steps here and there you'll note Venice is remarkably flat, so there's really no need for it), your backpack and your camera at your hotel. Try to dress a bit more like the Italians. Wear a shirt if you're a guy - yes, I mean one with buttons at the front. And ideally with a fairly plain, muted colour. Good.

When you arrive at Florian, stride in through the main door, confidently past the little reception desk (pausing only for a forthright but cheery "buongiorno" or "buonasera" depending on the time of day, to the maitre'd). Motion that you're heading for the bar, as though that's what you always do when you come here. When you get to the back, head over to the left slightly - there's a counter which is mainly used for service, and I think is generally kept clear, but to your left hand side you should see a bar with four stools in front of it. There's also two little tables which you can use, and still pay at-the-bar prices, so long as you order from the bar and don't expect table service there.

Bear in mind given the size of the bar area this really isn't suited to large groups. By yourself is fine, as a couple fine too. Three at a pinch might also work, but more than that is probably a bit much.

Also, getting the timing right is important given the limited capacity, on a Sunday in October, both in the early morning for coffee and in the early evening for an aperitivo it was fine. YMMV at other times of day / of the year.

Once there, you'll very likely be in the capable hands of either Daniele or Maurizio, the two head barmen. If you're just going for a coffee, the done thing seems to be to stick to something small and quick - an espresso or a macchiato. Either will cost 3 Euros, which by Italian stand-at-the-bar prices is high, but less than half what you'd pay at a table. If you're lucky you may be offered a biscuit.

If going for an aperitivo, there's a small list on the bar of their recommended cocktails, including an eponymous Florian cocktail, which feels like a cousin of the Negroni - gin, Martini bianco, Campari and a liqueur called Aurum. Served, unlike the Negroni, without ice, in a Martini glass, garnished with a Maraschino cherry. This was pretty good actually. The Bellini is also on their shortlst.

Three drinks (a Negroni, a Florian and a vermouth) with some free nibbles thrown in, came to a very reasonable 28 Euros.

Caffe Florian
Address: Piazza San Marco, 57, 30124 Venezia
Phone:041 520 5641